Northeast Sardinia holds two famous names that sit side by side. One is the Costa Smeralda. It is the "Emerald Coast", a strip of shore built for glamour. The other is the Maddalena archipelago, a scatter of granite islands. The islands are now protected as a national park. A boat lets you see both in one trip.
The contrast is the point. On the coast you find marinas, beaches and busy summer towns. A few miles north, the islands feel older and quieter. There are small harbours and clear water. Plan at least a few days for each half.
The Emerald Coast
The Costa Smeralda is a coastal area and tourist destination in northern Sardinia, Italy. It runs for some 20 kilometres (Costa Smeralda). The name once covered only a small stretch near the commune of Arzachena. That changed fast. Development began in 1961, financed by a consortium of companies led by Prince Karim Aga Khan. The main towns were built to a detailed urban plan. Porto Cervo is the best known. Liscia di Vacca, Baja Sardinia, Capriccioli and Romazzino sit nearby. The area has white sand beaches, golf clubs and exclusive hotels. It even offers private jet and helicopter services. It draws celebrities, business and political leaders and other affluent visitors. It is one of the most expensive locations in Europe.
A regatta worth timing
If you like racing, aim for the end of the summer. Each September the Sardinia Cup sailing regatta is held off the Costa Smeralda coast. Watching the fleet, or joining the crowds ashore, adds a different energy to a late-season cruise. Book berths and tables early if you go then. Polo matches, for what it is worth, are held at Gershan near Arzachena between April and October. This connects to our earlier piece, Where to anchor near Porto Heli when the marina is full.
La Maddalena and its islands
The Maddalena archipelago lies just off the Sardinian shore. Its main town is also called La Maddalena (La Maddalena). It is the largest town in the archipelago. It sits only about two kilometres from the northeastern shore of Sardinia. The comune has 10,449 inhabitants. It covers the whole archipelago. That includes the islands of Caprera, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria, among many others.
History runs deep here. The Romans knew the island under other names. Benedictine monks founded small communities there in the 12th century. The position in the Strait of Bonifacio mattered too. Much maritime traffic must pass through it. That made the archipelago a strategic military point. Admiral Nelson used it as a base for his fleet in the Napoleonic Wars.
A park with rules
The Arcipelago di La Maddalena National Park was established in 1994. It is a geomarine park. It covers land and sea of over 12,000 hectares, with 180 kilometres of coasts (La Maddalena National Park). The park's islands also include the Isles of Nibani, Mortorio, Soffi and Camere. Because these waters are protected, mooring and anchoring follow local rules. The rules can change with the season. Check the current park guidance before you anchor, swim or land. Treat the beaches and seagrass as the reason you came.
Conclusion: Two halves of one coast
The Costa Smeralda shows what money can build on a beautiful shore. The Maddalena islands show what a coastline looks like when it is left mostly to nature. Sail both in one week. You will get the full picture of northeast Sardinia, from the quays of Porto Cervo to a quiet bay among the islets. That contrast is what makes this corner of the Mediterranean worth the trip. Readers following this should also see The Amalfi Coast in a week: ports, timing, and the two hours that decide the trip.
